Monday, September 10, 2018

July 30, 2018 - Day 59: Lagoon Cove to Big Bay - where our flotilla goes separate ways - and on to Desolation Sound

Distance: 88 miles covered in 13 hours of cruising 

Highlights:  We bid farewell to the flotilla as each boat goes its own way.  Journey is heading home immediately; Beyond will remain North a bit longer; and Seaquel will head to the warm waters of Desolation Sound for a few relaxing R&R days prior to heading home.  After a long day passing south of the Broughton Islands and Johnstone Strait, Seaquel alone reaches the familiar waters of Desolation Sound.  Warm weather, no bugs, swimming - a perfect transition from rugged Alaska!



5am at Lagoon Cove: "Anchors up" is an hour off, and Mark takes Moxie to shore while most in the marina are still asleep and boats in the cove still have their anchor lights on...


You know its an early "shore duty" when the moon is still out.  But such peace and tranquility...


Glassy water conditions and clear skies bode well for a day that promises to be one of our longest of our adventure as we plan to cover a lot of "ground" (water)…

The stern of Journey is barely visible poking out among dozens of Aspen catamarans at the marina...


6am, and like clockwork, the flotilla is moving out...



Leaving Lagoon Cove behind...                                                                                                                                                                                            

Underway as the sunrise highlights the surrounding mountains - gorgeous!                                         

Lots of adjectives could be used to describe that moment when you are underway, captain of your own vessel, with calm water, clear skies, and the sun promising a beautiful day in paradise.  Adjectives like stunning, breathtaking, tranquil, memorable, blessed, and jaw-dropping...



Sunrise over Chatham Narrows heading toward Johnstone Strait...

Once again, our early morning departure pays off with unusually-calm waters for today's cruise...



Making headway down Johnstone Strait, which can often be very rough with strong wind.  Today we are fortunate to have ideal conditions to help us get closer to home...

On a long cruising day like today, Nicole enjoys listening to "books on tape" with a pillow speaker we bought for this trip.  Today Nicole is listening to the C.S. Lewis classic: "Chronicles of Narnia."


Passing marker after marker, every mile traveled now is a mile closer to home...



Bath day for Nicole: getting lathered up while underway!


This dolphin was among dozens that were feeding along Cordero Channel...



A lonely tug pulls his load north as we head south...

Dent Rapids in Gillard Pass, just north of Big Bay, can run up to 10 or 12 knots and is best run closer to slack tide when the current is not as strong.  Here the currents are running around 3.5 knots...


Approaching Big Bay, Peggy ties on the fenders and mooring lines to prepare Seaquel for docking.  Note that the addition of rear-view mirrors adds a safety feature as Mark can keep an eye on Peggy from the helm while the First Mate performs this task...

Journey and Beyond docking at Big Bay.  The flotilla originally planned to remain here, together for one last night before heading different ways the following day.  However, Seaquel broke the news over the VHF radio as we approached that we would be heading on alone.  We would dock first to have a proper farewell picture and to share a final goodbye with hugs and tears...


Ollie, Pam, Glen, Peggy, and Mark pose in front of Seaquel.  Ollie & Pam would stay here for the night; Glen would change his mind and follow Seaquel out of Big Bay to make headway toward Comox and get closer to home.  Mark & Peggy have a lot of family obligations when they reach home, including meeting Baby James for the first time.  We are anxious to get home, but want to spend a few nights on our own to celebrate our 37th wedding anniversary prior to all the mayhem and busyness that awaits us in Anacortes...

Our Alaska adventure has been blessed with great weather; minimal mechanical issues; breathtaking landscapes; and amazing wildlife.  But we have been a supremely functional flotilla, with each boat contributing and complimenting the skill sets of the others to make this a successful achievement.  None of us can imagine making the trip without the others.  Still, it has been two months, and it is time to go our separate ways...

Mark & Peggy won't step on another dock, other than two fuel stops and to check into U.S. Customs, until we reach our final destination of Cornet Bay, Whidbey Island, just a few miles south of our home in Anacortes.  Our smiles reflect the satisfaction of having accomplished our dream trip, but also ready to go our own way...

Leaving Big Bay and heading for open water.  Aaaahh…no boats to follow, just making our own course!  While we appreciate how functional our flotilla has been in facing the challenges of rugged Alaska cruising, this is boating as we have done for the past three decades and we have a new-found appreciation for the autonomy and solitude of being underway on our own...


Getting closer to Desolation Sound we begin to see a lot more pleasure craft traffic...


One of the new Ranger Tugs fitted with a gas outboard propulsion.  The first of many we will see in the days ahead as Ranger Tug's annual sponsored trip to Desolation Sound is bringing many new boat owners to this very popular area at this time...

Another tug pulling a heavy load...


We reach Refuge Cove in the heart of Desolation Sound just before 5pm so we can fuel up before seeking anchorage for the night...

Heading into the busy fuel dock of Refuge Cove...







With fuel topped off, we head across Desolation Sound to Laura Cove, where we last anchored 25 years ago and will feel like coming home even if we are still nearly a week away from Anacortes...



Another newer Ranger Tug - we will see at least a half dozen of these new boats today alone...

Mt. Denman towers over Desolation Sound at 6,299 feet straight up from the sea, a familiar landmark that confirms we have arrived in this boater's paradise that boasts a Mediterranean climate with the warmest waters north of Mexico...

Another characteristic of Desolation Sound: LOTS of boats!  This is so NOT like Alaska!  Boats everywhere, easy and plentiful anchoring, warm climate, and warm water...


Did I mention WARM water?  SUP boarding and swimming are in order...

Moxie prepares to launch...

1-2-3 jump!  Moxie loves to swim - but swimming with company is even better...


Aaaaaahhh….....like bath water, in more ways than one after two months without a swim...

Sharing the SUP Board as a raft from which to swim...


Initiating Seaquel's new hardtop as multi-purpose diving platform...


No one will ever confuse Mark for Greg Louganis...

But submerging into the refreshing, crystal-clear waters of Desolation Sound is, well, the best...

When Mark dives in, Moxie always dives in right behind...

If Peggy is swimming, you know the water is warm...


The smile says it all: this feels so-o-o-o-o-o GOOOOOOD!!!!

Taking Moxie to shore at the head of Laura Cove.  From this one vantage point we can see nearly as many boats on anchor as we had seen in almost all of Alaska!

We enjoyed amazing weather in Alaska.  But often the bugs (biting flies and mosquitoes) prevented us from enjoying lazing on the deck of Seaquel.  This is true, hard-earned bliss in Desolation Sound...

Moxie will spend more time wet than dry during our three days in Desolation Sound as she will live in the water...

Ranger Tugs are everywhere: four are at anchor in just this far end of this cove, one of dozens of anchorages within the expansive Desolation Sound archipelago...

Desolation Sound in summer is like an nautical party.  It is as much for boat-watching and people-watching as it is the idyllic anchorages and spectacular mountain scenery...

Seaquel is dwarfed by the gorgeous classic yacht, Malibu, anchored across from us...


This isn't Alaska anymore: Peggy enjoying kayaking - in a bathing suit!

Moxie keeps Mark company on the SUP board as we explore the intricate waterways and anchorages of Desolation Sound...

Moxie observes the famous rope swing of Laura Cove...

Exploring the tidal inlets...






Boats EVERYWHERE...

Many boats raft together in large groups to form a floating party.  Here is a sailboat flotilla...


Powerboat flotillas are everywhere too...


Desolation Sound is a haven for dinghy's, kayaks, SUP Boards, and lots of dogs...

Gaining shore access in Alaska for Moxie was not always easy, and often dangerous as we beached armed with bear spray and an air horn.  In Desolation Sound: lots of easy shore access...


Boat-watching is a favorite pastime in Desolation Sound.  Every shape and size imaginable...



Seaquel enjoys relative solitude (more than if docked in a marina) despite the popularity of this haven...

Four power boats rafted.  Note the hammocks stretched between the bows of three of the boats, as well as the folks taking in the late sun on the bow of the boat on the right.  Desolation Sound is a celebration of boats, water, and fun in the sun...

Late sun fades on Laura Cove...



Sunset in Laura Cove, the end of an amazing day that marks a true transition point in achieving our goal of transiting the Inside Passage to/from Alaska...


A day of rushing, mixed emotions...

We bid farewell to our flotilla, and the realization that our Inside Passage adventure to Alaska and back is very nearly over.  But it is so nice to set our own course, our own departure time, and our own pace.  After following and taking pictures of the sterns of other boats for two months, it is nice to have "clean water" ahead and choose autonomously where to set a course for Seaquel.  And...it is so nice to have some R&R time to relax in great weather, swim in warm water, and lounge outside in a bug-free environment.  Today feels like a celebration of successfully achieving our Alaska journey!  Tomorrow there will be no early "anchors up" call.  In fact, the alarm won't be set.  We will sleep in, eat a late meal, swim, kayak, paddle board, and repeat to our heart's content...

~Mark

2 comments:

  1. What a journey! I assume by warm water you mean 60 degrees????
    Mike

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mike, believe it or not, the water is warmer in Desolation Sound than anything you will find among your Southern California beaches, including L.A. or S.D. Summer water temperatures regularly hit 75°F to 80°F in Desolation Sound. By comparison, water temperatures most everywhere else in the Salish Sea (Puget Sound, San Juan Islands, Canadian Gulf Islands) average below 54°F. It is a most unusual and enjoyable respite!

      Delete