Thursday, August 16, 2018

July 19, 2018 - Day 48: Ketchikan to Crab Bay

Distance: 21 miles covered in 4 hours (including an extra hour of whale-watching)

Highlights: A short run getting us close to Behm Canal for access into Misty Fjords, and we again discover an absolute gem of an anchorage that afforded good protection, seclusion, snow-capped mountain backdrop, and an extensive network of tidal rivers that was a paddler's dream.  Oh, and just before arriving to Crab Bay, we had at least three Humpback Whales swimming very close to our flotilla and they lingered near the surface feeding for at least an hour.


Prior to our departure from Ketchikan, two other boats that nearly became part of our flotilla who had caught up with us make their departure.  Ron & Libby Johnson in "Tug 'O My Heart" (Ranger 25'), and Marty & Brenda Colburn in "Snapshot" (Cutwater 26').  Once again, in the vastness that is SE Alaska, it is amazing to run across familiar faces.  But we had made the collective decision going into this adventure to limit the size of the flotilla, and three boats proved to be an ideal size.  Later, Tug 'O My Heart would catch up with Beyond after our flotilla separated to return home separate ways and those two boats would spend the last week together before returning to Anacortes...




Two eagles watch us go by from the breakwater as we exit the marina and bid farewell to Ketchikan...


Likely our last close-up view of a towering cruise ship as our scenery will be mostly wilderness the rest of the way home, with the one exception of Prince Rupert where we must report into Canadian Customs once we leave Alaska in less than a week...




Some of the waterfront dwellings along Ketchikan's shoreline do not reflect the idyllic waterfront real estate that one might expect.  Sadly, many properties reflect the harsh effects of both climate and economic realities of this northern outpost...







Heading further south within Tongass Narrows, we navigated through heavy congestion of recreational fishermen in a variety of boats large and small...






The skies above Ketchikan were also busy with tourists heading out every direction for nearby sightseeing destinations...


Beyond Tongass Narrows, past the congestion, we could open up our throttles a bit and make progress toward finding our next anchorage...

An eagle keeps watch over the water...

Just before reaching the day's destination, we noticed at least three Humpback Whales feeding along the surface, so our flotilla slowed to observe...





Glen uses a hydrophone to listen to the whales as they chatter...








A Humpback Whale surfaces just "beyond" Beyond...

Entering the bay, we come across a different species of sea monster...

...complete with green paint, red mouth, and a hairy scalp...

Also, serene beaches...







Entry into another world - of tidal rivers that expand/lengthen and contract/recede with the tides...



Peggy enjoying the serenity of paddling upriver and playing with the gentle currents...






Moxie, relaxed as ever on the board, even with currents swirling around us.  She is one contented and spoiled dog, just loving being on the water on the SUP Board and seeing the sights with us...








A man's best friend (and companion)...truly!


Later, we brought Pam (kayak), Ollie (dinghy), and Glen (dinghy, next two pictures) to experience paddling in this ever-changing landscape...






Peggy and Pam explore the far reaches of the tidal river in their kayaks...













Ollie and Pam stowing their kayak on Beyond's roof rack after a very satisfying excursion...


Moxie and Mark do some further exploring in the kayak at high tide...



Seaquel near the green sea monster...


High tide approaches the sea monster...

At high tide, the sea monster is barely above water.  And at a higher tide, the markings may help a boater not watching their charts to avoid scraping the top of this jagged beast...





Our flotilla at anchor, swinging in synchronicity with the direction of the tide...

Glen's catch from out in the open water beyond the bay...


Sunset at Crab Bay...



A day to distance ourselves from the southern-most city of Alaska, and re-enter a world of wildlife and picturesque landscapes.  Tomorrow we reach the edge of Misty Fjords, which promises even more grandiose landscapes than these...

~Mark

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