July 24, 2018 - Day 53: Kelp Passage to Lowe Inlet & Verney Falls

Distance: 41 miles covered in 6 hours of cruising 

Highlights:  On an adventure featuring so many spectacular waterfalls, we found one of the best.  Not the biggest, but a very high-volume cascade with leaping salmon trying to spawn upstream.  And set within a picturesque cirque that served as a reminder that there still remains some spectacular scenery awaiting us as we make our way southbound.  And Moxie joins a Harbor Seal to swim in front of the falls trying to catch the salmon!



Awaking to another foggy morning in Kelp Passage...




Underway, running on radar again due to dense fog...

Unlike the day before, glimmers of sun as the fog begins to burn off early...

Nice to see to the tops of the snow-capped, towering mountains once again...

A lonesome pleasure boat emerges from the fog heading northbound...

We are seeing more pleasure boats in Canada, south of Dixon Entrance that serves as a right of passage to earn Alaska and minimizes traffic further north...


The last of the fog dissipates...

Peggy takes a turn at the helm.  Because we often get going very early to have the best chance of calm water, we typically eat breakfast underway (and lunch too, on longer days).  Peggy and Mark take turns at the helm so the other can brush teeth, wash hair, etc. while underway...

Cruising along the lengthy and narrow Grenville Channel, we caught up with Ptarmigan, a tri-hull sailboat that was returning from having competed in the 2nd Annual R2AK "Race to Alaska"...

This unique race, from Port Townshend to Victoria (stage 1) and Victoria to Ketchikan (stage 2), is distinguished by not allowing any motors: propulsion is either human or wind powered, to cover the total distance of 750 nautical miles.  Most vessels are sailboats modified with slide-seat rowing stations.  The Ptarmigan team comprised of father-daughter tandem Bo & Kelsey Bohanon, and friends Molly McPartland, and Jack Gallagher.  Team Ptarmigan completed the race (an amazing accomplishment in its own right) and earned a 4th place finish.

Ptarmigan with a waterfall in the background...

Bo asked, via VHF radio, if anyone from our flotilla would mind taking some pictures of Ptarmigan.  You don't have to ask Mark twice, or twist his arm, to get the shutter going...

Note that clear blue skies and sunshine have returned...

A fog-less view looking south down Grenville Channel...

Heading south, we turn to port to head into Lowe Inlet...

Kettle Basin is just around the corner...

Beautiful Lowe Inlet features Verney Falls, which is shorter at high tide and taller at low tide.  Shown below is around mid-tide...


It is tempting to anchor immediately in front of the falls to avoid Kettle Basin's 100'+ depth, with the ever-present current from the outlet pulling you back, away from the falls.  However, the basin immediately at the base of the falls really only has "swing room" for a boat up to about 30 feet in length.  This larger sailboat tried anchoring a distance further back but still in front of the falls, and still with limited swing room.  With less directional pull from the outlet, the sailboat began to drag or swing precariously close to shore, so they had to relocate away from the falls...


Stunning - but pictures hardly do it justice.  The videos that follow in today's blog help convey the power as well as the majesty of these pristine visuals...


Peggy kayaking in front of Verney Falls.  Look close at the base of the falls, just under Peggy's paddle.  Do you see a salmon?

Yup - here's a close-up view showing the leaping salmon adjacent Peggy!

Mark and Moxie, using the SUP Board as a kayak, exploring the falls and taking pictures (note ever-present camera chest pack)...

Salmon were jumping EVERYWHERE in front of the falls...

Glen exploring the falls in his dinghy...

 

Fish jumping everywhere...


Mark, Peggy, and Moxie in front of Verney Falls...


Whooshibomb...

The sight of salmon jumping right in front of Moxie proved too much of a temptation for her, so...

 Moxie dove in after the salmon...

Mark takes an impromptu shower when Moxie climbs back onto the SUP Board...

Ollie and Pam in front of Verney Falls...

Mark and Moxie climb the falls to gain a better view...


View further past the falls, to the tranquil Kumowdah River that suddenly rages and spills into Lowe Inlet...




A short video showing the power and thunderous sound of the falls.  Look close, that's Moxie swimming behind Peggy in the kayak near the end of the video having the time of her life chasing salmon...

Difficult to capture the full beauty of this special place.  Here is a 180 degree view spanning Verney Falls to the left and the Kumowdah River to the right...


 Mark's low-profile "kayaker's view" looking up from the base of the falls...


Breathtaking...


A wonderful water world playground...

Glen rowing at the base of the falls...

Peggy paddles across the front of the falls...

 Moxie looks on as Peggy gauges the velocity at the base of the falls...

Moxie couldn't resist and jumps in again as Peggy gets closer...

…so Peggy also gets an impromptu shower, courtesy of one soaking wet Golden Retriever!

Another short video as Peggy crosses the base of the falls in the kayak.  Note the closer Peggy gets, the more Moxie moves towards her.  It is inevitable that Moxie ends up in the water for yet another swim...

Moxie is at home in the water or on the kayak...

The flotilla on anchor in Nettle Basin at Lowe Inlet.  Not an easy place to anchor with depths exceeding 100 feet.  But the payoff is worth the effort...

Seaquel's "navy" represents multiple ways to get off the boat to explore: the utility of the Ranger Tug allows us to carry an easy-to-deploy dinghy off the swim step which can be motored or rowed; the kayak is large enough to carry an adult and dog (or child); and the SUP Board which can be paddled standing up or as a kayak (note attached seat, along with improvised footrest made with plastic PVC pipe and orange cord) and also serves as a swim platform (human or canine)...


After dinner, the flotilla heads back to the falls for another view.  We were hoping to see bear, as they are known to catch salmon here, but none this day...




No bear, but we found Harbor Seal fishing at the base of the falls...

Glen, Pam, and Ollie taking in the awesomeness of this scenery...


Hangin' out in a back eddy, mesmerized by the sights, sounds, and motion of Verney Falls.  These are the moments where time could just stand still, wanting to savor every last morsel of these stimuli that make you feel so very much alive, and appreciate the blessing of being here in this remote and wild place...


Verney Falls grows taller as the tide recedes...


Exploring the far reaches of Lowe Inlet in search of wildlife...

We discovered this ancient fish weir on the North side of the inlet, once used to trap fish as the tide dropped...

Moxie is a good look-out on the bow of the kayak...

 An eagle is searching for its next meal...

 Mark & Peggy enjoy the late sun hitting the falls as yet another amazing day comes to an end...

Hard to beat a spectacular mountain-ringed basin with a picture-perfect waterfall!  And yet another, very different waterfall awaits just ahead as we continue our southbound journey...

~Mark