June 12, 2018 - Day 11: Prince Rupert to Ketchikan (via Dixon Entrance)

A very long day, in our roughest water yet: 81 miles and 11 hours cruising time.

We found a hitch-hiker while pulling up the anchor rode 1st thing in the morning:

The Kadey Krogen still at anchor in safe harbor at sunrise, as we get underway... 

Crossing Dixon Entrance is the true gateway from Canada to the U.S. and Alaska.  This is the “Big One”.  On the charts, it may not look as imposing as some of the more wide-open exposures like the Strait of Georgia, Queen Charlotte Sound, or Cape Caution.  But the confluence of a number of factors make this the most challenging crossing.  Here is how Don Douglas and Reanne Hemingway-Douglas describe this area in their cruising bible, “Exploring Southeast Alaska”: “Open to the prevailing swells from the west, it receives large flows of fresh water and high winds that whistle down the inlets to the east.  While the swells in Dixon Entrance originate in the Gulf of Alaska, they are frequently less noticeable than those in Queen Charlotte Sound.  However, due to strong and confused tidal flows and complex wind and weather fronts, nasty chop or breaking waves can develop, so it is best to cross during a period of benign weather (stable barometer).”  Yeah, well we listened to the guy in the beautiful (and large and stable) Kadey Krogen anyway.

Nice calm water to start the day with a very early 5:50 am departure:

So far, so good. Beyond takes on some small chop before we hit more open water:

Windshield wipers can handle this sea spray; not pictured are the bathtub-full blasts over the top of the cabin that obliterate vision momentarily...

Mark at the helm, some sea spray hitting the windows, but still relaxed and smiling.  But the camera is just about to be put away as the seas get wilder.  Note the camera, tea mug, and iPad navigation sitting at the helm.  All were secured down below minutes later when the seas turned much rougher...

It was a wild ride!  The middle third lived up to the billing noted above.  The first third: absolute glassy conditions winding through a series of narrow channels in the early morning hours.  We thought: “hey, this isn’t bad at all.  Great timing!  Thanks, Mr. Kadey Krogen yachtsman!  We progressed out into more open water, and some waves began to kick up, but not too bad.  I was in “camera mode” capturing pictures of Beyond and Journey ahead, taking the occasional splash inside my open starboard helm window that is the price paid to get blog-worthy pics.  Then Mother Nature provided a sampling of what Dixon Entrance is likely to offer: that nasty chop and breaking waves were throwing bathtubs full of water across our windshield, and completely over the top of Seaquel.  Catching glimpses of Beyond and Journey just ahead, occasionally she was climbing those breaking waves at a sharp 45 degree angle!  It was the other occasions that were more nerve-wracking: when so much water enveloped Seaquel that I could not find Beyond or Journey anywhere ahead.  The waves and chop were strongly pushing Seaquel from side-to-side so it was difficult to maintain a straight course, and it could be very disorienting when the “visual” ahead disappeared, either by direction or by walls of water.  Seaquel’s windshield wipers are helpful with rain and occasional sea spray (especially when using Rainex); but they were useless against the volume of water being hurled upon Seaquel. My trusty camera, along with assorted lenses, for the first time in two weeks was moved off the helm and tossed up front in the safety of the V-berth.  Sorry, no pics of the “nasty chop and breaking waves”!

The final third, the seas calmed significantly and the final push across the U.S./Canada border and into Ketchikan was comfortable.  Our little flotilla of Ranger Tugs handled Dixon Entrance remarkably well, even loaded down as we are.  It is said that these tugs can handle conditions better than their crew, and we can all attest to that!

As Peggy said later, once feet were firmly planted dockside in Ketchikan: “I’ll never listen to someone in a Kadey Krogen again!”

Peggy is all smiles after crossing Dixon Entrance and the rough water is behind us!


The Garmin Chartplotter tells us we just crossed back into the U.S. from Canada...and into ALASKA!


And just like that…WE ARE IN ALASKA!!!  And we earned it! We refueled, cleared U.S. Customs, and secured dock assignments where we tied up to a brand-spanking new Ranger 27 Outboard that had been delivered by barge just the day before.  New owners Buddy Tucker and Julie Conyers were excited to see three Ranger Tug "cousins" sharing the Ketchikan dock.  Yes, we were a tad happy too - now moored securely and Dixon Entrance behind us – at least until our return trip south!

Bald Eagles had bid us farewell In the early morning; and again greeted us upon our arrival to the other side of Dixon Entrance.

With Dixon Entrance well behind us, as we approach Ketchikan, the trappings of tourism and industry abound all around.  This Alaska State Ferry chased us into the harbor:

This sums up Ketchikan in one word: BUSY!  Alaska ferry traffic, cruise ships coming and going, floatplanes buzzing the skies, boats zipping all around....

These 1,000+ foot cruise ships are M-A-S-S-I-V-E.  From a yachting perspective, they seem more like floating prisons or amusement parks (same to me) than they do ships.  The gaudy length may be surpassed only by the overwhelming height, as some over 20 stories tall, towering over every other building in these Alaskan cities.  Just kinda...weird and surrealistic compared to the "natural" scenery and wildlife we have become used to!

By comparison, most of the homes in Ketchikan are modest, and blend into the mountainsides of this historic outpost:

Taking advantage of stores and services in Ketchikan, and with help from Glen, we addressed a few mechanical issues.  Our 2.5hp Yamaha outboard for the dinghy had suffered from water in the fuel, so Glen took apart the carburetor and we replaced the fuel, and it now works again like a charm.  Readers may think Glen did me a favor (and of course we thanked him with fresh-baked double chocolate cookies from Seaquel’s galley).  But in Glen’s peculiar view of things, we did him a favor by providing him his daily Rubik’s Cube puzzle to solve.  The day we had our close encounters with Black Bear is when the little outboard had died.  Glen could not believe his good fortune: “I get to see bear, AND tinker with an outboard!”  Yes, life is good traveling to Alaska - especially having Glen along in our flotilla!  We also did some trouble shooting to determine the cause(s) of our navigation and mast lights not working properly, which we corrected.  An interesting contrast: while all three boats are carrying a full stock of spare parts, filters, belts, pumps, etc., Glen is a minimalist when it comes to creature comforts.  Unlike Beyond and Seaquel, Journey has no built-in propane range (he uses a portable stove for cooking); and he carries just 2 plates vs. our full galley of supplies; and he carries no deck chair, etc. But Glen could probably rebuild an entire engine with the impressive inventory of tools, spare parts, materials, etc. that Journey carries.  Mostly it is Glen’s knowledge, reasoning, and temperament of how to problem solve that is providing me with nearly daily lessons.  Ollie and I comment frequently how fortunate we are to have Glen with us, and while Glen will dismiss all this in his characteristic self-deprecating manner, we certainly appreciate Glen and his considerable “MacGuyver-like” talents!

Glen is all smiles as he takes apart the Yamaha's carburetor - in the rain no less.  Ah, what a treat!

Glen test-drives the Yamaha-powered dinghy, good as new!


More mechanical stuff: within the first couple days of our voyage, crossing the Strait of Georgia I think, our 1500 Watt inverter went out, probably due to water entering our aft compartment.  This is the 2^nd year in a row that water (probably from the Strait) got into the aft compartment where the inverter is mounted (probably my only criticism of this otherwise amazing boat built by Ranger).  I replaced the last one, but do not intend to do so again, given how little we need it and susceptible it is to malfunction, especially since we carry two small inverters for charging electronic devices like cell phones, computers, and camera batteries.  We rarely use our microwave, so once home we will dispose of the large inverter along with the microwave, creating more stowage space both in and out of the cabin.  And this will be proof that Glen’s lessons are truly taking hold, as we give up some unnecessary creature comforts in order to simplify life aboard.

The inverter was needed more for operating a 110V vacuum cleaner to keep up with Moxie's shedding.  Two simple steps mitigated that need as well: 1) Peggy found a good 12V vacuum at Walmart (thanks to Julie for providing a ride in Ketchikan); 2) we removed the carpet insert in the cabin that served primarily as a fur magnet and we can now sweep the floor easily instead.  Simple. Dummy proof.  Maybe even Glen-approved!

Two tugs (Journey & Seaquel) moored together for a quiet night on the dock:

Notice how bright Journey's mast light is (left) compared to Seaquel's (right).  After a morning of tinkering, that is now remedied along with functioning navigation lights.

All is peaceful and quiet as we reflect on an adrenaline-pumping day.  Having cleared the last big "gate" to enter Alaska, our collective excitement to explore this "last frontier" is palpable...

~Mark