June 7, 2018

Day 6: Joe Cove to Miles Inlet

Today's route: another 43 miles and 5.5 hours of cruising time, highlighted by very rugged exposure to Queen Charlotte Strait (the wide mouth open to the Northern Vancouver Island) and some relentless rain.

Today was one of the major “big water” crossings, with full exposure to Queen Charlotte Strait toward the Northern tip of Vancouver Island.  Sage advice from seasoned Alaska cruisers: “Don’t do like recreational boaters who wait for a nice, sunny day and begin the crossing after a leisurely breakfast, only to get caught in the typical afternoon winds.  Do as the fishermen do: depart early on a rainy day when you have a longer window for extended calm seas.”  Yup, another 6 am departure!

The last 90 minutes approaching Miles Inlet were rough, with increasing swells and following seas that push the boat uncomfortably.

First an early morning exploration with Moxie to bid farewell to the tranquility of beautiful Joe Cove...

 This dilapidated float with equally dilapidated picnic table can be found at one end of Joe Cove...

Another early start to the day to maximize calm conditions...




But the rugged coastline was made even more ominous-looking with increasingly heavy seas, gray skies, and pelting rain...



We followed a sailboat into the narrow opening of Miles Inlet, offering, as Bob Dylan would say: "Shelter From The Storm"

The flotilla enjoying a secure and peaceful anchorage at the far end of Miles Inlet...


Right above where we all tied our stern ties, a massive Osprey nest towered over our tugs.

 

It almost seemed like the tide didn’t so much come up as the inlet seemed to rise from the heavy rains.  So, what to do sitting on anchor on a rainy day?

Mark (and Moxie) can't resist going rowing up & down the criss-crossing "canals" of amazing Miles Inlet.  Pick a cove to go down, and you are likely to find an "intersection" with turns either way, like a matrix of canals or boulevards.  Missing: no traffic lights or roundabouts.





On wet, cold days like this, the most important item on the boat is quality raingear; the most important component on the boat may be the diesel heater - makes the little Ranger Tug feel like a cozy cabin.  And very relaxing to listening to the rain outside, from the comfy confines of or floating cocoon.  Stay dry, stay warm, and life is good! 

As for Peggy, a quiet afternoon playing piano (indoors) while bobbing to the changing tides is both relaxing and a great way to exercise the brain.  No, that's not a full-size piano, but it is truly remarkable what all we were able to pack onto this 27-foot Ranger Tug for nearly 3 months.  We have the heaviest payload among the three tugs in our flotilla, and not all because we have the most bodies.  We likely also have the most toys, including multiple kayaks, a half-ton of camera gear (only slightly kidding), multiple DVD players and dozens of movies, multiple computers, and a frisbee and tennis balls for the do - in addition to the electronic keyboard.

Tomorrow is yet another early day: we depart the cozy confines of Miles Inlet to round Cape Caution, some of the most exposed open water on the entire trip.  Teaser: you will love the pictures of the giant Pacific swells that seem to swallow up our Ranger Tugs!

~Mark