Ollie, Pam, and Mark got up at 3:30am to catch a taxi to the airport for a 5:30am flight to Gustavus, to catch the tour of Glacier Bay. With recent 80 degree days, perfect blue skies and bright sunshine the last thing we expected was a weather delay. But too much of a good thing, and despite clear skies in Juneau, there was heavy fog in Gustavus. Our flight was canceled, and we re-booked both the flight and tour for the next day.
At the other end of the airport, I was able to switch my Avis rental car day and picked up the car and drove the Peppers back to the marina. Then Peggy, Nicole, and I set about to maximize our use of the car: 1) Back to the airport to UPS to pick up Nicole's supplies; 2) Tour of Mendenhall Glacier; 3) Tour of National Shrine of Saint Therese; 4) Costco to pick up other supplies for Nicole that FedEx failed to deliver on time.
What type of car we got mattered little; but I love the Grizzly Bear on the license plate!
Nicole thought is was absolutely hilarious to be riding laying across the back seat with two seat belts. Unconventional (and Nicole knew it!), but functional...
O.K., I must say it is absolutely ridiculous just how spectacularly scenic Alaska is. These next two pictures were taken just pulling the car off the side of the road...
I had been averaging 400 to 500 pictures a day for the past month. Now I'm about to hit a stretch where I shot over 7,000 pictures in 5 days. Then I have to go back and select a trivial quantity to share. Just not fair!
Mendenhall Glacier Hike
There are two short hikes for viewing of the glacier, and separately a longer hike to view the falls...
Nicole's jogger is working great, thanks to Peggy's custom handiwork. It is great to get Nicole on both paved and dirt trails to see the sights, and the jogger navigates uneven terrain far better than Nicole's wheelchair that we left back home...
I had last visited the Mendenhall Glacier while on a business trip to Juneau back in the early 1980's, and stood at this very spot. It is shocking how far back this tidewater glacier has receded. About 35 years ago, the band of rock showing at the lower right was covered in ice, and forward to a point in front of the waterfall, which did not exist at that time. The trail out to Nugget Falls is singularly spectacular, but it is also disconcerting that the presence of this two mile trail to the falls suggests that my grandchildren may not ever see a tidewater glacier.
Nugget Falls is HUGE!
Juxtaposition: a glacier-fed mountain waterfall creating a beautiful sandy beach, that in these near-record 80 degree Juneau day, appears to belong somewhere closer to the equator than the arctic...
One year ago, two young Christian men, Patrick Ryan and Daniel Amy paddled their kayaks for 3 months from Port Townshend, WA up the entire Inside Passage, seeking spiritual renewal and culminating in a visit to the National Shrine of St. Therese. Along the way, they visited our church, St. Mary in Anacortes, and shared their story and ambition with our congregation. Their journey, both physical and spiritual, is partially what inspired Peggy and I to take on the challenge of our own "Inside Passage" journey, and in particular to bring Nicole with us. This was a highly anticipated side-trip, and it did not disappoint. Pictures don't do justice to the sense of peace and tranquility and presence of the Lord that touches one's soul here. But I hope the pictures can at least convey what a special place this is, at least for those willing to open their hearts...
The spectacular stone church is built among the trees on the knoll of the isthmus, like a hidden treasure waiting for those willing to explore deeper...
Our pastor at St. Mary's, Fr. Mel Strazicich, is a big fan of saints and strongly suggests finding a favorite saint who can inspire you. Coincidentally, Fr. Straz told us a few years ago that St. Therese is his favorite saint. So there is a special connection and drive to understand more about this bourgeois French girl who joined a cloistered convent at age 15, known as "The Little Flower". St. Therese's life was cut short, stricken with tuberculosis at age 24, and suffering until her untimely death in obscurity at just 26 years of age. St. Therese had great ambitions, wanting to do great deeds. But her post-death appeal is based on her realizing that all that mattered was God's love. Doing simple things but with great love became the core of how she has since inspired legions to her "Little Way". The humbleness and great spirit of St. Therese, despite her deep suffering, strikes home in how our daughter, Nicole, is among the most humble and innocent of people, has suffered pain and loss, and yet has inspired us to grapple with the forces of despair and evil. Also, while so much was taken from Nicole in illness, she remains a beacon of cheer in what is too often a gloomy and callous culture today. Nicole is capable of touching people's souls, not unlike St. Therese. I like to say that Nicole "can light up a room with her smile!" You can see that in the pictures of Nicole in this blog. The popularity of St. Therese is the universal appeal of her "Little Way" that sheds light on the holiness to which we are all called. Nicole's infectious smile, despite her sometimes tortured condition, likewise represents a universal appeal to which most of us can easily relate. The gift of Nicole's smile makes it difficult to not see the brighter, sunnier side of life. St. Therese's autobiography, Story of a Soul, based on her memoirs and published after her death, became a best-seller around the world and is one of the books we brought to read aboard Seaquel on our physical and spiritual journey up the Inside Passage...
Nicole gazes to the heavens and can see eye to eye with St. Therese in more ways than one...
The stunning holy grounds include the shrine chapel, built in the 1930's from on-site beach stone; along with stone structures of the Stations Of The Cross; a Good Shepherd Rosary Trail; a Merciful Love Labyrinth; Marian Garden, Biblical Garden, and cabins that can be rented. It is a popular destination wedding location.
The day we visited the shrine, fishing boats packed Amalga Harbor adjacent the site to the north open to Lynn Canal. On a down year for pink salmon, seiner boats and tender vessels lined up for hatchery chums, creating a unique spectacle amid the stunning Chilkat Mountain Range serving as a worthy backdrop...
This last area of the shrine grounds is called "Mary's View". We ascended a steep pitch to a magnificent perch. A prefect spot to pray, meditate, and contemplate all of God's wonders...
Juneau Waterfront...
The Juneau Seawalk park was constructed the past couple of years and is a fitting testimonial to a city defined by the sea. The spectacular sculpture of a breaching Humpback Whale dominates the skyline; and the raised boardwalk over the shoreline is both functional and scenic, providing walking access from the marinas and center of town out toward the cruise ship docks.
The basin has been cleverly designed to appear as part of Gastineau Channel when looking out toward the water...
What a great walk to the grocery store from our boat!
A very full day of sightseeing, and tomorrow promises even more as we hope to tour Glacier Bay. Another 3:30am alarm clock awaits...
~Mark
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