Wednesday, July 4, 2018

June 27, 2018 - Day 26: Tenakee Springs to Neka Bay

55 miles traveled; 8 hours cruising time
Highlights: Re-fueled in Hoonah (but will visit the town tomorrow); good wildlife day with dolphin riding the bow wake of Journey, and sighting of Sea Otter, plus typical great views all around.  But difficult anchoring conditions, horrible mosquitoes, plus disappointing crabbing results make this an "O.K." day but not the highlight we expected based on local advice.


Glen leads the way out of Tenakee Springs on the way to highly-anticipated Neka Bay, where numerous locals advised us the crabbing was best around...


Pam brings in the lines and fenders from Beyond as we leave the Tenakee Springs dock...


Even if the whales aren't jumping, the bear aren't showing, and the crab aren't getting caught, it is hard not to enjoy a day on the water being mesmerized by Alaska's vastness, with mountains marching off in every direction...










The vivid greenery continues to amaze as well...


A highlight of the day is watching the Sea Otter eat and play; seemingly oblivious to our presence..,


"Hey, over here!"  Unlike whale who disappear underwater for long periods and not knowing where they may rise again; or elusive bear who are shy of being near humans, Sea Otter are easy to photograph as they don't seem wary or in a hurry to go anywhere...






Hoonah Packing Company is the first commercial operation you see when approaching Hoonah...


Re-fueling at Hoonah...


Approaching Neka Bay, we realized that being "great crabbing" means lots of company, even in Alaska.  In this case, three commercial crabbers have strung their pots completely across the mouth of Neka Bay, and also extending well out of the bay.  There was nowhere to anchor without risk of swinging into and getting tangled with crab pot floats...


Below: none of us had ever seen so many crab pots before.  There was no chance to anchor in here, we would have to look around the point for an alternate anchoring spot in nearby North Bight...


Beyond looks for something "just right" for anchoring.  Not too deep but without any obstacles to hit at low tide; not too exposed to current or wind; and a good sturdy tree to provide a secure stern tie...


Seaquel finds its home for the night: on the edge where depths began to shallow from 60' to around 30'; and with a stern tie positioning the bow into the wind...




Based on depths and lack of good trees near the shoreline, this particular bay required nearly all of our 600' length of 3/8" poly stern line.  Much of the line is exposed at low tide...


At low tide, it is a long way across the beach to find something worth tying to in the brushy woods...


No commercial fishing boats here: we had most of "North Bight" to ourselves with the exception of one other vessel...




Must be a reason the commercial boats are in the next bay over; crabbing in North Bight was quite poor.  Glen got one Dungeness Crab; but both Ollie and Mark struck out - other than these spindly spider crabs...

The worst part of the trip so far: horrible mosquitoes and "no-see-ums" that were inescapable.  Mark finally resorted to cutting eye-holes in a bandana and wearing as a mask to prevent from being eaten alive...

The latest in Neka Bay fashion-wear...

While the crabbing wasn't good, and the bugs were nasty, the views from aboard the boats is always great.  We watched the fog lift and move across the mountains and settle into distant valleys.  Gorgeous!




Despite some challenges to anchoring and stern-ties, we managed to get our little flotilla of Ranger Tugs all together to create our typical little neighborhood for the night...


Below: the exposed rock in the foreground is typical of what one must take precautions when choosing an anchor location (it was hidden when we anchored at high tide); and why often the extra work of placing a stern tie is prudent to limit any swinging around the anchor and toward an unmarked rock like this...


Peggy lasted a surprisingly long time out on the kayak exploring the bay around to the next point of "South Bight" despite the bugs.  But mosquitoes have always liked Mark more than Peggy...


Evening brings more dramatic, fading light upon Journey and Beyond peacefully at anchor...

But in the end, the bugs win out and we retire to our cabins and limit our exposure out playing in the bay.  The lingering image of a mosquito is how we'll remember the North Bight of Neka Bay...

Tomorrow we head back to Hoonah, hoping to leave the bugs behind us and learn more about native culture, and then push onward to as we have just a few days/nights before we reach Juneau...

~Mark

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