Highlights: spectacularly peaceful loop around Halleck Island via Nakwasina Passage, then re-trace our route back to delightful Baby Bear Bay.
Weather forecasts looked a tad "iffy" for potential strong blows, so we play it safe and stay inside. This means missing some of the more "wild" coast that is not often visited; and also means retracing some of the route we've already done. This is a difficult but collective decision by the flotilla team, and we opt not to go if even just one boat voices concern. However, there are other sights we can now target a few days off that would be passed by via the "outside" route, including Tenakee Springs and Hoonah, two smaller settlements that reflect on authentic Alaskan living that you won't see in the "big" (cruise ship dominated) cities like Ketchikan, Sitka, and Juneau.
One last view of the sailboat masts and fishing rigs pointing skyward in Sitka's Eliason Marina. An eagle keeps watch over the marina (perhaps a rare sight in the lower 48, but common in Alaska)…
Sitka lifestyle: waterfront home AND a floatplane (or boat). Some means of traversing hundreds of miles of water is key to mobility and livelihood in SE Alaska...
Friends and locals both strongly recommended we detour around Nakwasina Passage leaving Sitka. The vibe matched the mirror-like water: totally calm and peaceful. We never saw another boat, and it was fun navigating through some narrows as shown on the Garmin Chartplotter below.
Nakwasina Sound in all its grandeur, solitude, and mirror-like tranquility. If you dropped a pin, of course you wouldn't hear a sound, but even a pin's ripples would disrupt the water's trance-like state...
Mirror image (turned upside down)...
Glen in Journey, cutting their own mirror-image in the glassy waters of Nakwasina Passage...
Mirror moving images (turned upside down)
Glen's favorite word for this adventure: "AMAZING!"
We never saw another boat, power or sail, but we did see a group of kayaks dragged up a beach. It was early enough the kayakers may have still been asleep in the woods. Either that, or eaten by bear...but not likely!
Pam & Ollie, looking "beyond" Nakwasina Passage to the towering mountains in the distance...
Leaving Nakwasina Passage behind, we round our way into Sergius Narrows...
Rip tides and whirlpools can be very powerful in Sergius Narrows, as well as Canoe Passage as an alternative passage. Since we did Sergius on our way in, we tried Canoe Passage coming back. This is where the higher speed and semi-planning hull design of these tugs provide an advantage versus traditional, slower full-displacement trawlers. While we typically enjoy taking our time to see the sights cruising around 7 knots, we goose the throttle in rapids and double our speed to make safe passage and minimize the effect of the swirling eddies...
Anchored in Baby Bear Bay, Moxie is looking forward to her trips ashore...
A "Full House": a pair of Kadey Krogen's along with "three of a kind" Ranger Tugs, anchored in Baby Bear Bay...
Anchor lights at Baby Bear Bay...
Glen sets his stern tie on Journey in Baby Bear Bay...
More bear scat along the shores of Baby Bear Bay. Makes walking the dog an exercise in caution. When walking Moxie in "Bear Country" (all of Alaska, and northern portions of British Columbia), I carry bear spray holstered on my belt, and also carry an air horn and a whistle. Also, a local suggested carrying a common plastic grocery bag, to wave in the air in the event of a curious or approaching bear as waving an empty plastic bag overhead tends to make a noise that is confusing to bear, and a confused bear will tend to retreat. But mostly I use hand claps and conversation with Moxie to alert any bears to our presence. By far the biggest risk with bears is surprising them, especially if a momma bear is with her cub. Also, as I row from Seaquel to shore, I turn around and row forward the last few yards to make sure I am scanning the shoreline prior to entering the bear's domain...
One lone fishing boat holed up for the night at the opposite end of meandering Baby Bear Bay...
Between Kakwasina Passage and Baby Bear Bay, we found Neva Strait, just north of Sitka to be littered with fishing boats of all shapes and sizes, plus some tug & barge activity...
Along with eagles and harbor seals, we see a lot of deer along the shoreline...
The islands and channels of Alaska are vast. Between the imposing landscape and larger fishing and working boats, our little tugs look small. But they have been up to every challenge, and we are all quite comfortable cruising in these wonderful boats...
After back-to-back nights on the dock at Sitka, it was nice to be on anchor again for a quiet evening of reading, editing pictures, and watching wildlife. Tomorrow we are back to seeking new surroundings as we head toward Tenakee Springs...
~Mark
Wow ! Breathtaking! Are you doing much fishing?
ReplyDeleteNot much fishing. Glen, on Journey, is fishing from his dinghy in the anchorages where we stay, primarily for bait for crabbing, which is our preference. However, we are catching a LOT of crab, figuring new ways to incorporate fresh Dungeness crab onto our daily menu! Fresh fish also available to purchase from local fishermen as well whenever we stay at docks.
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