Saturday, July 7, 2018

June 28, 2018 - Day 27: Neka Bay to Hoonah to Swanson Harbor

42 miles covered in 6 hours of cruising

Highlight: visit native settlement of Hoonah and learn about this ancient culture.  Begin making our way east toward Juneau...



Before leaving the dreadful mosquitoes and no-see-ums of Neka Bay, I had to retrieve the crab pot, which once again meant donning my bandana-turned-mosquito-mask.  We expected more mosquitoes and biting flies than we've actually had throughout the trip, so I can't complain.  Still, happy to leave these pesky bugs behind us!

Manage to catch 6 crab, including 4 keepers, and have them cleaned and steamed prior to our 7 am departure.  Will have many upcoming crab feasts!



Departing Neka Bay, and realize a "Un-Cruise Ship" (smaller cruise ships that come into smaller anchorages like us) was anchored just around the point from us...




Arriving early to Hoonah, we tied up on the docks next to a commercial crabber, probably one whose crab pots had blocked our entry into a moorage spot the night before.  It was fun to watch them unload their catch right from the dock.  Now, that's a "boat-load" of crab!

Nicole joined in the fun of being entertained by the expert crabbers!

Nicole is ready to hit the town, and learn about Tlingit Indian Tribe and their customs.

Nicole and Glen are at the root of how our little flotilla originated.  We had met Ollie and Pam on the docks passing through La Conner on a trip a couple of years ago.  We had shared notes about projects for our two boats at that time, and at the top of our list was to purchase and install a La Croix Lifting Davit (crane) to assist in loading Nicole onto Seaquel.  Ollie and Pam told us about Glen (who had trained them when they purchased Beyond that year), since Glen had installed the identical davit on his own boat, Journey.  Glen allowed us to "trial" Nicole on his davit on the dock at Cap Sante in Anacortes to make sure it was suitable, and then he helped Mark install it once we purchased one.  Glen (somewhat facetiously): "My help was not for you guys (Mark and Peggy) but rather for Nicole as I'm primarily interested in her safety."  Our friendship blossomed from there, and we have Nicole to thank!


Once again, our three small tugs are dwarfed by larger vessels at the dock...

A genuine hand carved dug-out canoe...

Learning about how totem poles are carved, and the stories they tell, was fascinating.  This totem is just being completed and will be shipped up to Glacier Bay.  It took 7 months to carve by hand, and tells the story of how the Tlingit tribe lost their native land of Glacier Bay as they were driven South by the "Little Ice Age" of the 1700's, but then prevented by the U.S. Gov't by treaty that kept them from their origins (depicted on the totem as having "many hands" that take, but "no eyes" as no tears are shed); to a recent return to their homeland by building a new Clan House.





Another reminder of lost loved ones to the dangers of the sea in SE Alaska...

Nicole's customized jogger has worked great in helping us get Nicole off of Seaquel for visits in numerous historic towns in SE Alaska...

Nicole is a great 1st Mate aboard Seaquel, but likes her "shore leave" as well to see the sights...

Beyond leaving Hoonah after a fun morning of exploration and education...

Another significant change to our course: we had come primarily North/Northwest (from Anacortes); then headed West to Sitka; but now are heading primarily East to Juneau before our turning South...

Journey taking in the view of Icy Strait...

Starting to see more Sea Otter...


Ollie and Pam in Beyond, idling in Icey Strait south of Glacier Bay, waiting to see if an Orca Whale we sighted will surface...



Sea Otters...


Orca Whales...

And dolphin riding the bow wake of Seaquel...

SE Alaska is every bit as vast, scenic, and jaw-dropping spectacular as its reputation...

Another floating dock for easy "anchorage" without the anchor, this time in Swanson Harbor...

Peggy and Pam go exploring in the kayaks...



No keepers in Swanson Harbor, just these brightly-colored crab that were too small...


Spectacular snow-capped mountain background to Swanson Harbor...

Moxie enjoyed the tall grasses and expansive beaches to run on of Swanson Harbor...


Tomorrow we head to Funter Bay, as we anticipate making our way further East toward Juneau which will mark the half-way point of our adventure.

~Mark

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