Sunday, July 15, 2018

June 30, 2018 - Day 29: Funter Bay to Oliver Inlet

43 Miles covered in 6 hours of cruising
Highlights: we hit our Northern-most point of our Alaska journey; timed our way into a very narrow and shallow inlet to hole up for a couple of days amid the enchanting charms of this tucked away paradise; and did our best to keep dry despite continued rain.


Now heading predominantly south; and every mile henceforth will bring us closer to home!  

Our furthest point north, as we loop over and around Mansfield Peninsula of Admiralty Island, heading for south to Juneau.  Try that again: we proceeded south - to - Juneau!

A morning dinghy ride in Funter Bay prior to heading out to find Oliver Inlet...

Another Alaska State Ferry.  Everything in Alaska is big: the ferry is big; the mountains are big; the waterways are big; and the distances between destinations are definitely big...

Beyond makes the turn south...

The lighthouse at Point Retreat, at the Northern tip of Mansfield Peninsula on Admiralty Island.  Heading south at this point brings us out of Lynn Canal into Saginaw Channel; leading to Stephens Passage.  After our planned week in Juneau, most of the following week's cruising will be based from Stephens Passage, including two of our most highly anticipated excursions east into the mainland: 1) Tracy Arm; and 2) Fords Terror

View to the east from Stephens Passage reveals our first view of the Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau...

Juxtaposition: Beyond cruising south while a flock of Canadian Geese are heading north...

Nearing Oliver Inlet, we needed to kill a couple of hours in order to hit high tide, so our flotilla looked for a good spot to drop anchors for lunch in Young Bay on Admiralty Island...

For Seaquel, the first thing deployed after the anchor is firmly planted is the dinghy...

And Moxie gets a chance to do her business ashore.  Anywhere in Alaska, but especially on Admiralty Island (home to the highest concentration of Brown Bear/Grizzly with a density of one bear for every square mile), we approach shore cautiously.  First we scope it out visually; then we use hand-claps and conversation - anything to announce to a potential bear close by that humans (and canine) are present so we do not surprise them.  And of course we carry bear spray, but the thought of needing to spray a bear from 10 feet away when it is rapidly approaching you at up to 30 MPH makes you realize just how much of a last resort bear spray is.  Better to announce our presence and avoid surprises.  Besides, they say if you are being chased by a bear you don't have to be able to outrun the bear; you only have to outrun the other person.  Unfortunately for me, that "other person" is a very fast Golden Retriever, and I'm pretty sure that Moxie can outrun me...

Glen exploring Young Bay by dinghy, his favorite mode of transportation...


Moxie....looking as relaxed as ever in what is also one of her favorite modes of transportation...
 Three Ranger Tugs, each "on the hook" for a lunch stop...

Seaquel with a typically spectacular Alaska background...

Dinghies and kayaks are like magnets to Harbor Seal, as we almost always are followed by these curious creatures of the sea when we paddle or row...

Pam and Ollie exploring Young Bay...

Glen on his way back to Journey...

Peggy catches some z's after lunch as we wait for the tide to turn...

In Alaska, not only are their great views in every direction; but wait just a few minutes and the same view will change.  Moving clouds and fog constantly reveal different gems on the horizon.  I especially like the contrast of so much intensely dark evergreens with the bright beacons of white snow patches...

High tide: Journey and Beyond (and Seaquel) make their move into the opening of Oliver Inlet...

From the Douglas book, Exploring Southeast Alaska:  "Oliver Inlet has its entrance through a channel 1 mile long and 200 yards wide.  The inlet is accessible only at high water to boats and small craft...At high-water slack, small vessels drawing not over 6 feet can enter.  Currents in the entrance have a velocity of 6 to 8 knots, forming heavy swirls."


Also from the Douglas book: "Oliver Inlet is a quiet and peaceful anchorage surrounded by moss-covered trees in which wind and chop never seem to enter.  Time stands still here.  A breaking twig seemingly reverberates for minutes.  Being narrow and 3 miles long, the inlet has an almost spooky quality to it."  Indeed...

Rain only seems to add to the tranquil mood of Oliver Inlet...


Note the curious Harbor Seal checking out Seaquel after just dropping anchor...

Mirror-like reflections abound in the glassy, still waters of Oliver Inlet...

Listening to the rain outside, from the cozy interior of Seaquel...



The tramway/boardwalk was built in the 1950's and allows easier portage of gear from the north (Oliver Inlet/Stephens Passage) to Glass Peninsula adjoining Admiralty Island, where a State Parks cabin is available to rent.  The raised walkway also allows for a nice stretch to hike above the bog.  Here, I take Moxie on a short trial walk; tomorrow we will aim to find the cabin at the far end...




 After Funter Bay, lots of fresh Dungeness Crab means time to crack crab and stockpile the tender meat for upcoming meals...


The only other boat we saw in Oliver Inlet was this small sailboat.  It left on the 2nd day, so our 3-tug flotilla had the 2nd night all to our own...

A peaceful and relaxing introduction to Oliver Inlet.  Tomorrow we hope for a break in the rain and get a bit more energized as we take on the tramway/boardwalk hike across to Glass Peninsula...

~Mark

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